Sandy success

We are back in the bustling metropolis of Jaisalmer after two days and two nights on camels in the desert. Jaisalmer isn't really a metropolis, but it sure feels that way after a couple of serene desert days.

Our trek started on Sunday morning where we met our fellow trekers at the travel office in the fort in Jaisalmer. Eleven people, including us, were on the trip. There were three people from Australia, two from Israel, two from Spain, and four Americans (though one was a native of India, but lives in SF now). Erin and I were likely the oldest, but most were between about 25 and 28. We left our big bags at the travel office and took off with our small day bags and water. The first stop on the tour was the German bakery down the hill to get some chai and cinnamon rolls.

One breakfast was done we loaded into two jeeps and drove over the bumpy roads for about an hour where we met up with our camels and camel drivers. Quite a sight to see 11 camels sitting in the desert waiting for us. Erin and I figured the only other time we'd each been close to camels was at the Zoo when we were about 10. The best description is that they appear prehistoric with giant muscular legs, huge feet, and the trademark big hump. They all make noises like Chubbakah from Star Wars; that is when they aren't farting, which they do frequently.

Each camel was loaded with a saddle that had three parts, one for the rider, one for the hump and one for the cargo each carried. Each was loaded down with blankets, 5 gallon water jugs, feed for the camels, food, our bags, Dave and Alan's sleeping bags, bags of fruit the guides gave each of us, and everything else we would need. Each camel waiting for us was sitting down on its haunches waiting for us to load up. Once we sat on the camel, it was an awkward dance where the camel stood up first on its back legs, almost pitching us off, then up on the front. Once standing we were seated about 7 feet off the ground.

Once we were all loaded up, the camels started walking. We were given no instructions on how to control them or steer, just given the reigns and the camel knew the way. We trusted our fearless camel driver, whom we were told to call Desert King. He looked like he had been on a million safaris, eaten lots of sand and been abused by lots of desert sun and chain-smoked cigarettes. Only later did we learn that he was 32; he easily looked 50. He regailed us at lunch one day talking about his 6 children, 25 year old wife (whom he was engaged to from the time she was 4 and he 11).

The camels lumbered along in the desert for a couple of hours and literally caused a pain in the ass. After the first leg, I thought I'd try one more leg. About an hour into the second leg I asked Desert King to lower my camel, Sonia Gandhi, so I could begin walking with the five others who had already given up on riding camels. Erin dismounted from Sanjay after the first leg as well. While Erin continued to walk some and then ride some, I walked for the rest of the trip. I probably walked for about an hour the first day, 6 hours the second, and 2 hours today. I guess that would be about 25 miles of desert walking...but it beat the heck out of camel saddle soreness.

We camped for two nights on sand dunes under the stars. The dunes we slept on were about the only dunes we saw each day. Most of the landscape looked like Eastern Washinton or Eastern Colorado, with only a few actual dunes. Nothing like my mind's eye. Desert King and the other drivers prepared dinner each night of rice, chapati (bread) and dal (lentils) that we each ate with our sandy fingers. Then we all sat around a camp fire getting to know each other and listed to the guides sing. Each guide banged on an empty water bottle or a metal plate for rhythm and sang beautiful indian songs. Though one driver also sang a camel driver version of Barbie Girl by Aqua, that was particularly entertaining.

Once dinner was complete the drivers washed the metal dishes by putting a little water on them then rubbing them with sand all over. When no more sand stuck to the wet/dirty parts, the plate was deemed clean; Surprisingly effective.

The rest of the trip was spent enjoying the silent walking, the star filled sky, the hot sun...and farting camels.